Minakamisansou

HOTEL OVERVIEW

Look, I’ve stayed at my fair share of ryokans in the Gunma mountains, but Minakamisansou honestly caught me off guard in the best way possible. You know how sometimes you book a place based on photos and then show up to find it’s… well, not quite what you expected? This was the opposite of that. The moment you pull up to 556 Tanigawa — and yeah, the GPS gets a little wonky in this area so don’t panic if you take a wrong turn near the Tanigawa station — you realize this isn’t just another mountain lodge trying to cash in on the onsen tourism.

The whole property sits tucked into this gorgeous valley that most people just drive through on their way to the ski resorts, which honestly works in your favor because it stays relatively quiet even during peak season. What really got me was how they’ve managed to keep that authentic ryokan feel without making you feel like you’re roughing it. The tatami rooms actually smell like proper tatami (you know that sweet grass scent?), not that weird chemical cleaning smell you get at some places. And the futon setup — I mean, I’m usually skeptical because my back isn’t what it used to be, but they’ve got this figured out with the right firmness and proper bedding. The onsen itself is fed by natural hot springs from the area, and you can actually see the mineral deposits on the rocks, which tells you it’s the real deal. I spent way too much time soaking there during the early morning hours when nobody else was around, just listening to the river nearby.

What sealed it for me was the service — not in that over-the-top way that makes you uncomfortable, but genuinely thoughtful stuff. The staff seemed to actually know the area well (one guy gave me detailed directions to this hiking trail that doesn’t show up on most maps), and the kaiseki dinner was sourced from local producers in a way that felt authentic rather than forced. The mountain vegetables were probably the best I’ve had in Japan, and I’ve been coming here for years. The only tiny critique I’d have is that the wifi can get spotty in some rooms during bad weather — something about the mountain interference — but honestly, if you’re here checking emails constantly, you’re missing the point. This is the kind of place where you actually want to disconnect for a bit, soak in those mineral-rich waters, and remember why you fell in love with traditional Japanese hospitality in the first place.