Odakyu Hotel de Yama

HOTEL OVERVIEW

You know what struck me first about Odakyu Hotel de Yama? The way it sits right there in Motohakone without trying too hard to be impressive – which honestly makes it more impressive than half the flashy places around Lake Ashi. I mean, when you’re dealing with a 4-star spot that’s pulling an 8.8 rating, you expect something solid, but this place actually delivers on that promise in ways that surprised me.

The location is sort of perfect if you know Hakone at all. You’re literally a few minutes’ walk from the lake, but here’s the thing most people don’t realize – you’re positioned just right to avoid the worst of the tour bus crowds that descend on the main lakefront areas. The hotel’s tucked into this quieter pocket of Motohakone where you can actually hear yourself think, especially in the evenings when the day-trippers head back to Tokyo. Walking to Hakone Shrine takes maybe ten minutes, and you’ll pass locals going about their business instead of just fighting through selfie sticks the whole way. The staff seems to get that foreign guests might not know all the local tricks – they actually suggested the best times to visit the shrine (early morning, trust me on this) and which bus routes to take if you’re planning to hit the other valleys.

What really won me over was how the place feels lived-in rather than sterile. The rooms have this understated Japanese elegance thing going on – clean lines, quality materials, but nothing that screams “look how traditional we are!” The windows are generous, and if you’re lucky enough to snag a room facing the right direction, you’ll catch glimpses of the lake through the trees. The onsen situation is solid too, though it’s not huge – which I actually preferred because it never felt crowded, even during what the staff told me was peak season. Water temperature was perfect, and there’s something about soaking there in the evening while listening to the sounds of the forest that just… works. The breakfast deserves a mention – it’s this nice mix of Western and Japanese options, but they clearly put thought into sourcing local ingredients. You can taste the difference in the eggs, and the miso soup actually has depth to it instead of tasting like it came from a packet.

Honestly, if you’re the type who needs to be right in the thick of every tourist attraction, this might feel a bit removed – though I’d argue that’s exactly why it works so well. Hakone can be overwhelming if you’re staying somewhere that puts you in the middle of all the chaos. Here, you get the best of both worlds: easy access to everything you want to see, but a genuine sense of place when you come back at the end of the day. The parking situation is straightforward if you’re driving (which I’d recommend for exploring the area), and check-in was refreshingly efficient without feeling rushed. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to plan your next Hakone trip before you’ve even left.