Rosewood Kauri Cliffs

HOTEL OVERVIEW

Look, I’ve stayed at my share of fancy places, but Rosewood Kauri Cliffs up on the Tepene Tableland genuinely made me pause and think “okay, this is different.” The drive there is actually part of the experience – you’re winding through farmland and native bush, wondering if your GPS is leading you astray, and then suddenly you crest this hill and there’s the Pacific stretching endlessly in front of you. The property sits on these dramatic cliffs overlooking Cavalli Islands, and honestly, photos don’t do justice to how the light changes throughout the day on that water.

What struck me most was how they’ve managed to feel both incredibly luxurious and authentically Kiwi at the same time. The lodge itself has this understated elegance – think rich kauri wood (which makes sense given the name) and floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the coastline like living artwork. You know what I mean about hotels that try too hard to impress? This isn’t that. The staff actually knows the area – like, really knows it. They’ll tell you the best time to spot dolphins from the terrace (early morning, apparently) or which walking track gives you the clearest view of the Bay of Islands on a good day. The golf course is stunning, I’ll give them that, even though I’m more of a hiking person myself. It’s designed by David Harman and sort of rolls with the natural contours of the land rather than fighting against them.

The suites are spacious without being overwhelming – mine had this massive deck where I actually spent most of my time, just watching the weather roll in from the ocean. There’s something almost hypnotic about it. The spa treatments incorporate native ingredients like manuka honey and pohutukawa, which feels thoughtful rather than gimmicky. Dining-wise, they focus heavily on local ingredients – the venison and seafood are exceptional, and they’ve got this impressive wine cellar featuring some smaller New Zealand vineyards you won’t find everywhere. I mean, it’s expensive, obviously – this is definitely a special occasion kind of place – but the 9.7 rating makes sense when you factor in the setting, the service, and how genuinely peaceful it feels. It’s about two hours north of Auckland if you’re flying in, and while Matauri Bay itself is pretty quiet (which is the point), you’re still within reach of Kerikeri or Russell if you want to explore the wider Bay of Islands region. Just don’t expect to want to leave the property much once you’re there.