Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta

Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much when I first pulled up to Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta – I mean, the name alone is a mouthful, right? But this place completely changed my perspective on what a hot spring resort could be. Tucked into the Jozankei valley about 30 minutes from central Sapporo, it’s got this incredible forest setting that makes you forget you’re still technically in the city. The building itself is this sleek, modern take on traditional Japanese architecture, and you know what really got me? The lobby has these floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the mountain views perfectly – I actually spent way too much time just sitting there with coffee before even checking in.

The onsen here is honestly the star of the show, and I’ve been to quite a few around Hokkaido. They’ve got both indoor and outdoor baths, but the rotenburo (outdoor bath) is where you want to be, especially if you’re visiting in winter when there’s snow on the trees. The water comes from natural hot springs right there in Jozankei – locals have been soaking in these waters for over 150 years, which kind of puts things in perspective. What I really appreciated was how they managed the crowds; even during peak times, it never felt rushed or overcrowded like some of the more touristy spots. The spa treatments are pretty exceptional too – they use local ingredients like Hokkaido kelp and sea salt, which sounds gimmicky but actually works.

The rooms are spacious by Japanese standards, and most have those same forest views I mentioned. I stayed in one of the Japanese-Western style rooms, which gave me the best of both worlds – tatami areas for that authentic feel, but also a proper bed and sitting area. The kaiseki dinners are where this place really shows off – they source ingredients locally, so you’re getting Hokkaido crab, uni, and beef that’s actually from the region, not flown in from somewhere else. Breakfast was this amazing mix of Japanese and Western options, and they do this thing with local Jozankei honey that I’m still thinking about.

One thing to keep in mind – parking is free and easy, which is huge if you’re driving from Sapporo, but the shuttle service from Jozankei Onsen station is pretty reliable too. The area gets busy during autumn foliage season (late September through October) and winter illumination periods, so book ahead if you’re planning around those times. I mean, the 8.9 rating makes sense once you’re there – it’s not perfect (the Wi-Fi can be spotty in some rooms, and English-speaking staff is hit or miss), but it nails the things that actually matter for a hot spring getaway.