Water Scapes

You know what struck me first about Water Scapes? It’s actually tucked away in Kumarakom North in a spot where you can hear the backwaters lapping against the shore before you even see them. I mean, the name kind of gives it away, but this place really lives up to it – there’s water everywhere you look, and honestly, that’s exactly what you want when you’re in Kerala’s backwater country. The property sits right on Vembanad Lake, and I’m not talking about some distant water view through the trees. We’re talking about stepping out of your room and being maybe fifty meters from traditional houseboats drifting by like they’re part of some slow-motion movie scene.

The rooms themselves are spacious – actually spacious, not hotel-brochure spacious – with these massive windows that frame the lake perfectly. What I really appreciated was how quiet it gets here, especially in the evenings when the day-trippers head back to Kottayam. The staff seemed to genuinely know the area well; our room attendant told us exactly when to catch the sunset from the restaurant deck (around 6:30 PM, and yes, it’s worth timing your dinner for). The bathrooms are properly modern – important when you’re dealing with the humidity here – and the air conditioning actually works, which isn’t always a given even at five-star places in this part of Kerala. Check-in was smooth, though if you’re arriving by car, just know that the final approach down to the property is on a narrower road where you might need to wait for oncoming traffic.

Here’s the thing about staying in Kumarakom North versus the main tourist strip – you’re close enough to everything (the bird sanctuary is maybe a ten-minute drive), but far enough that you’re not dealing with crowds of day visitors. The hotel arranges backwater cruises, and they use smaller, less touristy boats than what you’ll find at the main jetty. I watched other guests coming back from these trips looking genuinely relaxed rather than that slightly overwhelmed expression you get from the cattle-car boat tours. The restaurant serves solid Kerala food – the fish curry actually tastes like something a local kitchen would make, not the toned-down version hotels usually serve. Parking is adequate and free, which matters if you’re driving yourself around the backwaters. The pool area overlooks the water, and honestly, it’s one of those spots where you end up spending more time than you planned just watching the light change on the lake. At an 8.5 rating, it’s not perfect – the WiFi can be spotty during monsoon season, and some of the outdoor furniture looks like it’s fighting a losing battle with the humidity – but it’s the kind of place where those minor issues fade into the background when you’re watching kingfishers dive for fish from your balcony.