ABBA Resorts Izu – Zagyosoh

Look, I’ve stayed at plenty of ryokans across Japan, but ABBA Resorts Izu – Zagyosoh genuinely surprised me. First off, don’t let the “ABBA” name throw you – this isn’t some Swedish pop tribute hotel. It’s tucked away in Yawatano, which honestly feels like you’ve discovered some secret corner of the Izu Peninsula that most tourists completely miss. The drive up through the winding mountain roads is actually part of the experience, though I’ll warn you that GPS can get a bit confused once you’re deep in those hills.

What hits you immediately is how they’ve managed to blend traditional Japanese hospitality with this unexpectedly modern sensibility. The staff – and I mean this – actually remembered my name from check-in through the entire stay, which never happens at bigger resort chains. The onsen here is the real deal, fed by natural hot springs that have been bubbling up from the earth for centuries. You know that slightly sulfuric smell that tells you the water is legit? Yeah, it’s there, but not overwhelming. I spent way too much time soaking while looking out at the forest, especially in the early morning when mist was still clinging to the trees.

The rooms strike this perfect balance between traditional tatami elegance and having all the creature comforts you actually want (like proper air conditioning and blackout curtains that work). My room faced the mountains, and honestly, waking up to that view every morning never got old. The kaiseki dinners are elaborate affairs – maybe a bit much if you’re not into formal dining, but the seasonal ingredients are incredibly fresh. They source a lot from local Izu farms, and you can actually taste the difference. The breakfast spread is generous too, mixing Japanese and Western options without that weird hotel buffet vibe where everything tastes like it’s been sitting under heat lamps.

Here’s what I really appreciated: the location gives you easy access to Ito’s hot spring district if you want to explore beyond the resort, but you’re far enough removed that you don’t hear any traffic or city noise. Just cicadas in summer and the occasional rustle of wildlife. The staff helped arrange a day trip to the nearby Jogasaki Coast, which saved me the headache of figuring out local bus schedules. Parking is free and abundant – not always a given in Japan – and they have this covered drop-off area that’s perfect when it’s raining, which it does frequently in this region.

If I’m being completely honest, this place isn’t cheap, but for a 5-star property with a 9.3 rating, it delivers on pretty much every front. The service feels personal rather than corporate, the setting is genuinely peaceful, and there’s something about the whole experience that makes you want to extend your stay by at least another night. Just book well in advance – locals know about this place, and availability can be tight, especially during autumn when the mountain foliage is peak gorgeous.