Bay of Many Coves

Honestly, when you first glimpse Bay of Many Coves from the water taxi – and yes, you’ll need to take a boat to get here – it looks almost too perfect, like someone photoshopped a luxury lodge into the Marlborough Sounds. The property sits tucked into this impossibly green hillside overlooking Queen Charlotte Sound, and I mean, the isolation is both the whole point and something you should definitely prepare for mentally.

What actually impressed me most wasn’t the obvious stuff (though the infinity pool situation is pretty spectacular). It’s how they’ve managed to feel genuinely remote without skimping on the details that matter. The suites are scattered across different levels of the hillside, so you’re not hearing your neighbors through thin walls, and each one has this massive deck where you can sit with morning coffee and watch the water change colors. The staff somehow remembers everyone’s names within hours – which feels especially impressive when you realize they’re essentially running a small village out here. You know what’s smart? They’ve got these little golf carts to shuttle you around the property, because otherwise you’d be doing some serious hiking between your room and dinner, especially if you end up in one of the upper villas.

The restaurant is where this place really shows its hand though. Chef sources from local suppliers (I mean, the green-lipped mussels are probably swimming in the sound below you at lunch), and they’ve got this wine list that focuses heavily on Marlborough sauvignons and pinot noirs – which makes sense since you’re literally in wine country, just approaching it from the water instead of the usual Blenheim route. Dinner service feels relaxed in that expensive-casual way where nobody’s rushing you, but everything arrives precisely when it should. The only real downside? Well, you’re genuinely stuck here once you arrive until your departure transfer, so if you’re the type who likes exploring different restaurants or popping into town for supplies, this isn’t that kind of trip. Some people find that liberating; others get a bit stir-crazy by day three. Also, the weather can shift quickly out here – I watched a gorgeous sunny morning turn into sideways rain by afternoon, though honestly, watching storms roll across the sound from your heated suite isn’t exactly suffering.

This is definitely splurge territory, but it’s the kind of place that delivers on the investment if you’re looking for proper escape-from-everything luxury. The helicopter transfers they offer are worth considering if you can swing it – not just for the convenience, but because seeing the sounds from above gives you this incredible perspective on just how remote and wild this corner of New Zealand really is.